Feeding is where more quail-keeping beginners go wrong than any other aspect of management. The error is almost always the same: assuming quail eat the same diet as chickens and feeding them standard chicken layer pellets. This single mistake is responsible for a significant proportion of poor egg production, feather pecking problems, and general ill-thrift in Australian backyard quail flocks.

Quail — specifically Japanese Coturnix Quail, the species kept by the vast majority of Australian producers — have materially different nutritional requirements from chickens. They need significantly higher protein, particularly when laying, and getting this right makes the difference between a productive, healthy flock and one that chronically underperforms.

This guide covers exactly what quail eat at every life stage, what feeds are available in Australia, what treats are beneficial, what is toxic, and how to manage feeding practically in a backyard or small-scale production setting.

The Fundamental Difference: Quail Need More Protein Than Chickens

This is the most important nutritional fact to understand about quail:

Poultry Type Typical Protein Requirement (laying)
Laying chickens 15–18%
Laying ducks 16–18%
Laying Japanese Quail 20–24%
Quail chicks (0–2 weeks) 28–30%
Meat quail grow-out 24–28%

Why the difference? Japanese Quail are physiologically closer to game birds than domestic chickens. In the wild, quail are insectivores as well as seed and plant eaters — insects are a critical protein source. Their domesticated descendants retain this high protein requirement, particularly during the intensive metabolic demands of daily egg production.

Feeding laying quail on 16% protein chicken pellets produces predictable results: - Reduced egg production (sometimes by 30–50%) - Thin or soft eggshells (protein is needed for shell membrane formation as well as shell calcification) - Feather pecking and cannibalism (protein deficiency drives birds to seek protein from each other) - Slow moult recovery and dull, incomplete plumage - General poor body condition and reduced disease resistance

Feeding by Life Stage

Stage 1: Newly Hatched Chicks (0–14 days)

Day-old Coturnix chicks are tiny and develop extraordinarily quickly. Their nutritional needs in the first two weeks are intense.

Protein requirement: 28–30% Recommended feed: Gamebird starter crumble — a fine-particle crumble (not pellets, which are too large for tiny bills; not mash, which packs and can cause crop problems)

Critical points for chick feeding: - Ensure feed is fine enough to fit in a day-old quail's beak — it should be granular, not pelleted - Place feed in a very shallow tray or on paper towel for the first 2–3 days so chicks can find it easily (they learn to eat by pecking at contrasting objects on a surface) - Fresh feed daily — quail chicks are particularly susceptible to aspergillosis (fungal infection) from mouldy feed - Medicated vs unmedicated starter: Some chicken starter feeds are medicated with amprolium (a coccidiostat). Amprolium at chick-dosing levels is generally considered safe for quail chicks, but opinions vary among producers. Unmedicated gamebird starter is the safer, more conventional choice.

Water for chicks: Use a very shallow dish (no deeper than 1cm) with marbles or pebbles to prevent drowning. Quail chicks drown in surprisingly shallow water — even a standard chick drinker with 2–3cm of water depth has been known to kill day-olds. Nipple drinkers are excellent if chicks can reach them; ensure nipples are at appropriate height (beak-level when standing normally).

Stage 2: Growing Juveniles (2–5 weeks)

From 2 weeks, chicks are growing rapidly and developing feathers. Protein needs remain high but can be stepped down slightly.

Protein requirement: 24–26% Recommended feed: Gamebird grower crumble; can also continue on starter if grower is not available

At this stage, chicks can be introduced to slightly larger particle sizes. They are increasingly robust and active, and begin to show adult behaviours (dust bathing attempts, social pecking order establishment).

Common problem at this stage: Feather pecking. This is almost always caused by overcrowding and/or inadequate protein. If feather pecking is observed: 1. Check stocking density — is there at least 500cm² per bird? 2. Check protein content of feed — is it at least 24%? 3. Reduce light intensity — constant bright light increases aggression 4. Remove any bleeding birds immediately — blood triggers intense pecking

Stage 3: Laying Hens (6 weeks+)

Once hens begin laying (around 6–8 weeks for Japanese Quail), protein requirements remain high to support daily egg production.

Protein requirement: 20–24% Recommended feeds in Australia: - Gamebird layer crumble/pellets (if available from your supplier): ideal - Gamebird grower crumble: works well; most available brands in Australia are in the 22–26% range - Turkey starter or grower pellets: typically 20–24% protein; widely available - A mix of gamebird grower crumble + chicken layer pellets (50:50): a practical compromise when dedicated quail feed is unavailable; results in approximately 18–20% protein — borderline but functional for many flocks - Home-mixed rations (for experienced producers): can be optimised precisely

What to avoid: - Standard chicken layer pellets as the sole feed: 16–18% protein is insufficient for productive laying hens - Scratch grains only: Grain-only diets are dangerously low in protein and will shut down egg production rapidly

Stage 4: Meat Birds in Grow-Out (0–6 weeks)

Meat quail (particularly Texas A&M Jumbo White varieties) need high protein and energy for maximum growth rate.

Protein requirement: 24–28% Feeding approach: Ad libitum (unlimited access to feed at all times) Recommended feed: Gamebird starter for weeks 0–3; gamebird grower for weeks 3–6

Do not restrict feed for meat birds — they are raised for carcase weight, and any feed restriction sacrifices growth rate and feed conversion efficiency.

Stage 5: Non-Laying Birds (Males, Spent Hens, Off-Season)

Males and non-laying females do not have the intensive protein demands of laying hens, but still require adequate protein for maintenance, feather condition, and health.

Protein requirement: 18–20% Recommended feed: A gamebird grower or a 50:50 mix of gamebird and chicken maintenance feed

Excess protein in non-laying birds is simply excreted — not harmful, but wasteful. If you're feeding a mixed flock of males and females, a laying diet for all is fine; the males simply excrete what they don't need.

Feed Products Available in Australia

Finding appropriate quail feed is one of the most common challenges for new Australian keepers, as quail-specific products are less common at retail than standard chicken feeds.

Gamebird Starter/Grower Crumble

The most appropriate commercial product for Australian quail. Available from: - Rural merchandise stores: Elders, Landmark, CRT stores - Stock and station agents with feed divisions - Horseland stores in some states - Online poultry feed suppliers

Brands available in Australia include (availability varies by state and region): - Barastoc Gamebird Crumble - White River Gamebird Starter - Laucke Mills Gamebird mix (some regions) - Various private label brands through rural suppliers

When you can't find gamebird feed locally: Turkey starter (available from most rural suppliers) at 20–24% protein is an excellent alternative. Phone ahead to verify protein content before purchasing.

Online Feed Suppliers

Several Australian online suppliers ship poultry and gamebird feeds nationally: - Search "quail feed Australia" or "gamebird crumble Australia" on Google - Facebook quail groups often have current recommendations for state-specific suppliers

Home-Mixed Rations

Experienced quail producers sometimes mix their own rations for cost or quality control. A basic home-mix for laying hens might include: - Wheat or cracked corn (energy) - Soybean meal or canola meal (high-protein supplement) - Fishmeal (high protein, excellent amino acid profile) - Lucerne meal (protein, vitamins) - Dicalcium phosphate (calcium/phosphorus balance) - Premix (vitamins and trace minerals)

Home mixing requires knowledge of ingredient composition and feed formulation principles. For beginners, purchased gamebird crumble is far more reliable.

Calcium: The Eggshell Mineral

Calcium deserves special attention because laying hens have enormous calcium requirements — far beyond what a balanced diet alone provides.

A quail eggshell is approximately 94% calcium carbonate. Laying a shell every 24 hours depletes calcium rapidly. Without supplementary calcium: - Shells become thin, soft, or absent altogether - Hens begin to mobilise calcium from their own skeleton - Egg binding becomes more likely (soft-shelled eggs don't pass easily) - Skeletal weakness, osteoporosis, and fractures develop over time

Providing calcium: - Crushed oyster shell: The standard supplement; available from rural stores, pet shops, and poultry suppliers; approximately $5–$15 for 5kg - Dried, crushed eggshells: A cost-free alternative; collect, rinse, dry, and crush your own quail and chicken eggshells and return them to the birds - Provide free-choice in a separate small dish — quail self-regulate calcium intake effectively

Not for males or non-layers: Excess calcium is metabolised harmlessly, but high calcium diets contribute to kidney problems in males kept long-term. If housing males separately, a lower-calcium maintenance diet is preferable.

Water: The Most Critical Nutrient

Water is often not thought of as "feed," but it is the most important nutrient for any animal. Quail need constant access to fresh, clean water.

Daily water consumption: - Adult quail: 30–50ml per bird per day at moderate temperature - In summer heat (35°C+): Can double to 60–100ml per bird per day - Laying hens: Slightly higher than non-layers (egg production requires water)

Water quality matters: Quail will reduce water intake if water is stale, dirty, or tastes strongly of minerals. Low water intake immediately suppresses egg production. Change water at least daily; twice daily in hot weather; use nipple drinkers if possible to prevent contamination.

Electrolytes: During heat stress, adding a poultry electrolyte solution to drinking water helps maintain mineral balance. Available from rural stores; particularly useful during heat waves or disease recovery.

Foraging and Natural Foods

In a natural setting, wild quail eat a diverse diet of seeds, plant material, insects, and invertebrates. Captive quail benefit from access to similar foods.

Best natural supplements for Australian quail:

Insects and invertebrates: - Mealworms (live or dried): Excellent protein; quail go absolutely wild for them; use as a training tool and daily enrichment - Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL): 40–50% protein; available fresh, dried, or as a frozen product; increasingly available from Australian suppliers; can also be home-farmed - Crickets: High protein; can be purchased freeze-dried from pet shops - Earthworms: Excellent if your garden has them; simply toss a handful into the cage

Plant material: - Finely chopped leafy greens: silverbeet, kale, dandelion leaves, nasturtium leaves and flowers, spinach, endive, chickweed - Grass clippings: Fresh lawn clippings (from unsprayed, untreated grass); quail enjoy picking through them - Herbs: Parsley, basil, thyme, oregano; small quantities; adds variety and some medicinal plant compounds

Seeds: - Millet, canary seed, finely cracked wheat: Good supplementary seeds; not suitable as a primary diet (too low in protein) - Sprouted seeds: Sunflower, mung bean sprouts; easy to grow and highly palatable

Note on greens for yolk colour: Fresh green plant material and marigold petals significantly deepen the yolk colour of quail eggs — producing a rich orange yolk that is more visually appealing and fetches better prices at markets.

Foods That Are Toxic or Harmful to Quail

Not everything in a garden or kitchen is safe for quail. The following are known to be harmful:

Definitely toxic: - Avocado: The persin compound is toxic to all birds; can cause heart failure - Onion and garlic: In significant quantities, causes haemolytic anaemia; small accidental quantities are unlikely to cause acute harm but avoid deliberate feeding - Raw potato and green potato: Solanine glycoalkaloids are toxic; cooked potato in small amounts is generally safe - Rhubarb leaves: High oxalic acid; toxic to birds - Tomato leaves and stems: Green parts of the tomato plant contain solanine; ripe tomato fruit in small quantities is safe - Chocolate: Theobromine is toxic; never feed - Citrus: While not acutely toxic in small amounts, citrus interferes with calcium absorption — avoid around laying hens - Avocado, apple seeds, cherry pits: Contain compounds harmful to birds

Problematic in large quantities: - Bread: Nutritionally empty; displaces proper feed; in large quantities causes nutritional deficiency; small amounts as an occasional treat are unlikely to cause immediate harm but are not recommended - High-salt foods: Quail have limited salt tolerance; salty table scraps should be avoided - Spinach (in large amounts): High oxalate content can bind calcium; fine in small amounts but don't use as the sole green supplement for laying hens

Mouldy or spoiled feed: Any mouldy grain, damp crumble, or spoiled greens should never be fed. Aspergillus fumigatus mould causes aspergillosis — a potentially fatal respiratory fungal disease that is one of the most common causes of unexplained quail deaths.

Practical Feeding Tips for Australian Conditions

Store feed correctly: Australian summer heat and humidity accelerates feed spoilage and mould growth. Store feed in a sealed, vermin-proof container (metal bin or heavy-duty plastic bin with a locking lid). Don't buy more feed than you'll use in 3–4 weeks during summer.

Measure consumption: Know how much your flock eats per day. A sudden drop in feed consumption is an early sign of illness, heat stress, or a problem in the housing (predator disturbance overnight, for example). Track it.

Feed in the morning: Providing fresh feed in the morning ensures birds eat well during the most active part of the day. In summer, feed early (before 8am) when temperatures are still manageable.

Remove uneaten food nightly: Any uneaten feed left in cages overnight attracts rats and mice. This is especially important in Australian suburban areas where rat populations are often high. Use a feeder that minimises spillage, and remove any feed not consumed by dusk.

Feeder hygiene: Wash feeders weekly with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly. Crumble feed in particular goes stale, becomes damp in wet weather, and can harbour mould in feeder corners. A clean feeder makes a real difference to feed intake and health.

How Much Does Feeding Quail Cost in Australia?

Average daily feed consumption per adult Japanese Quail: 20–30g A bag of gamebird crumble (20kg): $30–$55 depending on brand and location Cost per bird per day: Approximately $0.03–$0.08 Monthly feed cost for 20 laying hens: $12–$30

Supplementary oyster shell ($5–$15 for a 5kg bag lasting months) and occasional treats (mealworms, greens from the garden) add minimal additional cost.

Quail are among the most feed-cost-efficient of all backyard poultry — the combination of small body size and high egg output makes the cost per egg produced very competitive.

Conclusion

Feeding quail correctly is straightforward once you understand the core requirement: more protein than chickens, at every life stage. Source a gamebird crumble or appropriate alternative, provide free-choice oyster shell for laying hens, ensure constant access to fresh clean water, and supplement with insect protein and fresh greens for optimal health and egg quality.

Get the protein right and you'll be amazed at what these small, industrious birds can produce. Get it wrong and you'll spend the year wondering why your quail aren't laying as well as you expected.

Feed them well, and they will reward you accordingly.

For feed stockist information in your area, contact your nearest Elders, Landmark, or CRT rural supplies store. For specific nutritional queries, consult a poultry nutritionist or avian vet. For feed sharing and local recommendations, join Australian quail Facebook communities.